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How To Choose The Right Collar Style- A Complete Guide To Shirt Collar

Selecting the right collar is arguably the most crucial part in bespoke or Made-to-Measure shirtmaking. It plays a significant role in framing the face, enhancing your overall appearance, and reflecting your personal style. Customers may understandably feel overwhelmed by the vast array of collar designs we offer, encompassing both casual and formal styles. 

To ensure a perfect fit and a flattering silhouette, careful consideration should be given to your facial features, particularly the shape of the face and neck . This article will serve as a comprehensive guide to our various collar styles, empowering you to make an informed decision and select the ideal collar for your bespoke or MTM shirt

Selecting the Collar Interlining-Fused vs Floating ?

One crucial aspect of designing your bespoke shirt involves the collar construction, specifically the choice between fused or floating interlining. Understanding the distinct characteristics of these options  empowers you to achieve the ideal look and feel for your garment. 

Fused Collar

  • Construction

A fused collar features a layer of interlining adhered (glued) to one side of the collar fabric. The tailor then attaches this fused piece to the collar fabric, resulting in a clean and crisp finish. 

  • Benefits

Fused collars are easier to maintain due to their inherent stiffness. They tend to resist wrinkles and retain their shape well over time. 

  • Drawbacks

The fused construction can create a slightly less flexible collar compared to floating collar.

Floating Collar

  • Construction

A floating collar , the most traditional approach , features the interlining the interlining sandwiched loosely between the inner and outer collar fabrics. Stitching secures the layers , but the interlining itself remains “floating”.

  • Benefits

Floating collars offers a softer and more comfortable feel due to their flexibility . They also tend to drape more naturally around the neck , Jermyn St and Savile Row tailors often favour this method for its traditional aesthetic. 

  • Drawbacks

Floating collars require more care when ironing , as improper technique can lead to wrinkled edges.  

Choosing the Right Collar

The ideal collar type for your shirt depends on your personal preferences and lifestyle.

  • For a crisp, low-maintenance option: A fused collar is a good choice
  • For a softer, more traditionally styled collar: A floating collar may be preferable.

We recommend discussing your collar preferences and lifestyle habits with your tailor to determine the best option for your shirt. 

Collar Stiffness

The thickness of your bespoke shirt’s collar plays a significant role in both formality and personal comfort. We offer three different selection of collar thickness online , with a wider range available through our archive collection. Here is the breakdown of the available options. 

Stiff Collar

  • Formality: Thick collars embody a sense of formality. They maintain a crisp, structured appearance, ideal for pairing with formal attire like suits and ties.
  • Comfort: While offering a sophisticated aesthetic, thick collars may feel slightly less flexible around the neck compared to softer collars.  

Medium Stiffness

  • Formality: Offering a balance between formality and comfort, medium-thick collars strike a versatile note. They can be worn with suits and ties for formal settings or dressed down for a more relaxed look.
  • Comfort: Medium stiff collars provide a comfortable and adaptable feel, allowing for greater neck movement without compromising on structure. 

Soft Collar

  • Formality: Soft collars offer a distinctly casual and relaxed aesthetic. They drape naturally around the neck and are ideal for casual or semi formal shirts.
  • Comfort: Soft collars prioritise comfort above all else. They provide a flexible and unstructured feel, ideal for everyday wear.

Collar Styles

Classic Collar

Classic shirt collar

Our classic collar is the most versatile collar in our collection, this can be wore with or without a tie .

  • Collar Point length : 6.8 cm
  • Collar stand hight at back : 3.5 cm
  • Collar stand hight at front : 2.8 cm

Classic Pointed Collar

classic point collar

Classic pointed ( Narrow collar)collar is a larger pointed collar style worn with a small tie knot or with out a tie. 

  • Collar Point length : 8.5 cm
  • Collar stand hight at back : 3.6 cm
  • Collar stand hight at front : 3.5 cm

Large Classic Collar

Large classic collar

Large classic collar is a larger version of classic collar, this can be wore with a tie or without a tie.

  • Collar Point length : 8.2 cm
  • Collar stand hight at back : 3.6 cm
  • Collar stand hight at front : 3.5 cm

Medium Spread Collar

This medium spread collar offers a trendier look , this can be wore with a full windsor knot tie or without a tie. 

  • Collar Point length : 8.5 cm
  • Collar stand hight at back : 3.9 cm
  • Collar stand hight at front : 3.00 cm

Cutaway Collar

cutaway collar

Cutaway collar is a wide spread collar , this can be wore with a tie or without a tie. A larger tie knot looks better with this 

  • Collar Point length : 7.4 cm
  • Collar stand hight at back : 3.6 cm
  • Collar stand hight at front : 3.5 cm

Round Collar

round collar

Round collar is a traditional collar style and its very classy  can be wore with a tie or without a tie.

  • Collar Point length : 6.4 cm
  • Collar stand hight at back : 3.4 cm
  • Collar stand hight at front : 2.8 cm

Button-down Collar

Button-down collar is a popular collar that can be worn without a tieis ideal for casual attire. Offers a classic look with a tie. 

  • Collar Point length : 9.00cm
  • Collar stand hight at back : 4.00 cm
  • Collar stand hight at front : 3.7 cm

Hidden Button-down Collar

Hidden button-down collars offer the best of both worlds, the buttons are cleverly concealed beneath the collar points.

  • Collar Point length : 9.00 cm 
  • Collar stand hight at back : 4.00 cm
  • Collar stand hight at front : 3.7cm

Wing Collar

wing collar

Reserved for the most formal attires, the wing collar adds a touch of grandeur to your attire. Perfect for pairing with a bow tie.

  • Collar point length : 7.00 cm
  •  stand hight at back : 3.5 cm
  • Collar stand hight at front : 2.5 cm

Tab Collar

tab collar

Tab collar ads a personality touch to your shirt. Featuring a small tab at the collar points that button-down under the necktie

  • Collar Point length : 7.7 cm
  • Collar stand hight at back : 4.00 cm
  • Collar stand hight at front : 3.4 cm

Banded Collar

banded collar

The band collar is a casual style collar 

  • Collar band hight  : 3.5 cm

Camp Collar

camp collar

Camp collar is most fashionable collar to wear as comfortable as it looks. Suitable with a short sleeve shirt.

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