How to choose right fabric for your bespoke shirt
This a basic description about dress shirt fabrics, about different types of weaves, different materials like linen cotton etc. and difference of single-ply and two-ply. This provides a general idea about what kind of fabric is suitable for a formal business dress shirt, semi-formal and casual shirt.
This a basic description about dress shirt fabrics, about different types of weaves, different materials like linen cotton etc. and difference of single-ply and two-ply. This provides a general idea about what kind of fabric is suitable for a formal business dress shirt, semi-formal and casual shirt.
A Twill fabric is suitable for a formal shirt than casual. Twill shirt fabric is easily identifiable because it has a diagonal weave and texture. A twill fabric is weaved each warp and weft threads over and under two vertical threads to create a distinctive diagonal pattern. Twill fabric is softer but it is thicker than a poplin fabric , and is a kind of wrinkle free that makes it easy to iron and maintain smoother A Twill fabric is good for a business shirt or a shirt that that you can take it with you for your business trip
This fabric is very popular to create a dress shirt, it has a unique character of appearance because of its weaving pattern. End-on-end isa poplin weave, which the weft thread is one color and the warp thread is another color. Most often end-on-end is crossed with white for a more traditional look. This fabric appears to be a true solid color from a distance, but it has more dimension up-close. It is great for a business outfit and it provides a special characteristic to your business shirt.
Pinpoint fabric is less formal than a poplin or twill fabric and more formal than an Oxford fabric. Pinpoint has the same weave as oxford cloth, the difference is the two-and-one weave structure. The single weft crosses two warp threads forming a pin point look. Simply define a Pinpoint fabric is a blend of Poplin and Oxford, but less. Pinpoint fabrics are generally not transparent and are slightly heavier and thicker than poplin, because of the different construction method. This fabric is suitable for a semi business dress shirt or dinner shirt.
Oxford Fabrics are popular in casual or evening wear shirts, and it is suitable in a cool weather condition. Oxford is similar to Pinpoint Oxford, but it has a heavy thread and lose weaves. It has a character of rough looks than a Pinpoint fabric. It has a symmetrical basket weave where multiple weft threads are crossed over an equal number of warp threads. The two-by-two weave creates a slightly rougher texture that makes durable than other fabric weaves. An Oxford fabric is very suitable to make a button-down shirt and certainly be worn to office and evenings and any other casual occasions. A perfectly crafted Oxford button down bespoke shirt is an essential in men’s wardrobe.
Herringbone is basically a twill and that is mirrored when woven to create a chevron, “V-shaped” look. Herringbone Fabrics has a character of twill and it is a kind of wrinkle free fabric like twill and very easy to iron before you wear it. Herringbone Fabrics provides a formal as well as casual looks for your shirt, it has a smoother and textured character.
Chambray is plain weave fabric made with heavy threads and it is more suitable for casual outfit or work wear. It has character of Denim fabrics but it is not similar, but it is a great alternative to a Denim fabric shirt. Chambray fabric is woven with a colored yarn in the warp and a white yarn in the weft. A chambray shirt is suitable to your outfit in a cool weather condition.
Denim is a 100% casual fabric for shirt or trousers it’s more often uses for trousers but it is a great fabric to craft an amazing casual shirt. When it’s comes to a shirt, we use lighter fabrics than a jean. The construction of denim is similar to twill fabric but create the two-tone colored look, a color thread is crossed with a white thread. The color thread stays on the face of the fabric and the white pulls to the back side. Indigo dye is popular in denim fabrics and it is popular than others.
Linen fabrics are very casual, it’s breathable and comfortable to wear it in a hot or warm weather. A quality linen fabric is made from flax plant fiber, it typically needs less irrigation than any other plants. Linen fabric makes more wrinkles than a cotton fabric. Nowadays linen fabric is unique and there is a larger collection of different thicknesses.
Linen cotton blended fabric is another choice and it makes less wrinkles than real linen fabric.
Seersucker Fabrics are more commonly used to make a casual shirt. It has a unique puckered patterned look. The puckered look is created in the finishing of the fabric after its woven. Seersucker fabrics available in any color but a classic blue stripped fabric is popular. It’s comfortable to wear hot weather and it enhances your total casual outfit.
Flannels are very casual thicker fabrics typically suitable for cold weather, it provides a warm when you wear a flannel shirt. Flannels are usually Cotton sometimes blended with wool, cashmere for an extra warmth.
Jacquard Egyptian or Sea-island cotton is not a weave , it is the cotton or material using to create a fabric. All these cottons are getting from the same cotton plant but these are popular in its luxury high end quality. Sea-island cotton comparatively rare than Egyptian cotton. Special Giza 45 Egyptian cotton is very rare and they only use world’s luxurious shirt fabrics makers like Albina and Thomas Mason. Barbados cultivates special Sea-island cotton, the country’s weather is suitable for its cultivation and natural growth. Egyptian cotton and Sea-island cotton commonly use to craft luxurious shirts.
Ply means how many yarns are twisted together to make a single thread. Two plies are two yarns twisted together to make a thread. Two-ply Fabrics are durable than single-ply fabrics and it is superior than single-ply. Both single-ply and two-ply fabrics are using to create fabulous shirts. Some mills are rarely making three-ply fabrics.
Thread count may indicate the quality of the fabric, usually thread count referred to with a number, 50s, 80s, 100s 120s,140’s, 170s etc. These numbers refer to the yarn size. Usually a thread count above 100s will imply a two-ply fabric. There are some exceptional cases that extremely fine single-ply yarns are used, these higher number thread count will be twisted together by two yarns. Example two 60’s yarns twisted together to make a 120-thread count yarn.
You can read more on – Bespoke Shirts in London: What You Need to Know
